Floating Bridge Instructions?

[mchoi32]

What is the proper procedure of floating a bridge just slightly so that it is about a quarter of a centimeter off the body.

Is there a disadvantage to this?

[tom]

loosen the 2 claw screws on the back then re tune. you'll have to do this a few times to get to where ever you want it to be. try about a half turn at a time. if you go very far, your action will rise so you'll have to lower the saddles.
the down side of floating is that you have to be careful with palm pressure on the bridge, no drop d tuning, and string breakage= stop playing.

[dannopelli]

loosen the 2 claw screws on the back then re tune. you'll have to do this a few times to get to where ever you want it to be. try about a half turn at a time. if you go very far, your action will rise so you'll have to lower the saddles.
the down side of floating is that you have to be careful with palm pressure on the bridge, no drop d tuning, and string breakage= stop playing.

All my bridges float. If you are not used to it, it might take a short while to get comfortable. You have to push the strings a smidge more when bending too. But its kind of automatic. I mean I don't consciously notice the difference when going from a fixed bridge guitar to a tremolo guitar.

Also, if you only bring one guitar to a gig, well, if you burn a string you are screwed. I always have at least one tremolo guitar and one fixed bridge.

Funny thing is, I don't use the tremolo that much! For the amount of times I do, I should just block all my bridges!

[tom]

i have found a good compromise for me is setting the springs just tight enough so that the bridge just rests on the body. the arm is still soft enough feeling for gentile stuff but still allows drop d and palm muting without tuning issues.

[pipedwho]

This is what I do to get the trem floating a 'reasonable' amount.

1. Prop up the back end of the bridge with a credit card (or something thick enough to give you an appropriate float depth).

2. Retune the guitar.

3. Remove the credit card.

4. Loosen the claw springs until the A string is back in tune. At this point the rest of strings should also be back in tune. If you have some string slippage, then you might need to fine tune.

If your intonation is out, you can now adjust each saddle. With the bridge floating, you need to intonate each string while the others are all still in tune.

This also works for a Floyd Rose, but you need to make a 'wedge' of the right thickness to align the Floyd bridge plate parallel to the top of the body.

[dannopelli]

....

If your intonation is out, you can now adjust each saddle. With the bridge floating, you need to intonate each string while the others are all still in tune.

...

Dude that is SO DEAD ON!!!

Most guys go crazy when they float their bridge and can't intonate. You literally have to tune the guitar every time you move a saddle to get it perfect.

[pipedwho]

Dude that is SO DEAD ON!!!

Most guys go crazy when they float their bridge and can't intonate. You literally have to tune the guitar every time you move a saddle to get it perfect.
True! I've also seen a tech intonate a 'floating' bridge while it was still blocked to make the job easier. Unfortunately, as you set it back to floating, the extra sponginess of the floating bridge changes the detuning to finger pressure ratio, and it's back to square one. :eek:

[tom]

don't forget about the guy who intonates his guitar while it's laying on the bench and then wonders why it's way out of tune in playing position.

[Pietro]

Tom, believe it or not, even when I was a kid, I've never made that mistake. And I've intonated my own guitars since I was like 18 or something...

I saw somebody make that mistake and it just made me laugh...

inside...

then I gently corrected him...

[tom]

you'd surprised at the things we hear about:eek: :eek:

[bruce]

.. it's those pesky luthiers!

[mslugano]

don't forget about the guy who intonates his guitar while it's laying on the bench and then wonders why it's way out of tune in playing position.

Oh...that would be me...been there, done that. Live and learn.

[mslugano]

All my bridges float. If you are not used to it, it might take a short while to get comfortable. You have to push the strings a smidge more when bending too. But its kind of automatic. I mean I don't consciously notice the difference when going from a fixed bridge guitar to a tremolo guitar.

Also, if you only bring one guitar to a gig, well, if you burn a string you are screwed. I always have at least one tremolo guitar and one fixed bridge.

Funny thing is, I don't use the tremolo that much! For the amount of times I do, I should just block all my bridges!

danno...one word...Tremol-no.

I have them on all my trem guitars now. They are really fantastic and a great bang for the buck since you do not have to alter your guitar in any way...it's completely reversible. You could "block" your trem except for those few times you say you need it and then you unblock it in about 2 seconds. You can do altered tunings (I do a drop D a lot), bend strings without other strings going flat, rest your palm on the bridge without tuning issues, break a string without tuning issues and I am pretty sure it improves sustain when locked. It has removed my need for a fixed bridge guitar.

Highly recommended.

M

[dannopelli]

Hmmm...

I'll need to look into that!

Thanks

[mslugano]

Hmmm...

I'll need to look into that!

Thanks

Honestly, try it on just one guitar. If you don't like it, I'll buy it...but I bet you buy a couple more for other trem equipped guitars. I have sold a couple guitars recently that had them on and I just replaced the old stuff and kept the T-no for future guitars.

Only thing is, buy an extra trem cavity cover or two because you will want to cut the cover a bit in order to acces the t-no better. Buy thick 3 ply covers, if you can, because it helps keep yor belly away from the thumbscrews (you'll know what I mean). Also, the youtube step-by-step instructions are super helpful.

[crash]

Honestly, try it on just one guitar. If you don't like it, I'll buy it...but I bet you buy a couple more for other trem equipped guitars. I have sold a couple guitars recently that had them on and I just replaced the old stuff and kept the T-no for future guitars.

Only thing is, buy an extra trem cavity cover or two because you will want to cut the cover a bit in order to acces the t-no better. Buy thick 3 ply covers, if you can, because it helps keep yor belly away from the thumbscrews (you'll know what I mean). Also, the youtube step-by-step instructions are super helpful.

+1 on the Tremol-no. I just leave the backplate off.

[mslugano]

+1 on the Tremol-no. I just leave the backplate off.

I went without backplate for awhile too but I was always worried about turning the thumbscrews with my belly or belt and then losing them. I had a few old backplates in with my tools and spares so took a couple relatively thick ones and cut them up. I feel much safer this way.

Actually, with one of them that was a tiny bit thinner, I cut some very thin cardboard in the shape of the perimeter and screwed it in place between cover and guitar. It can't be seen (and I wouldn't care if it was) and it really made a big difference. Now, I never touch the thumbscrews unless I want to.