String Height/adjustment

[Casper]

Hey folks,
I don't normally set my own guitars up, but I figured I better learn (being that I've played for almost 30 years now).
I am in the middle of trying to adjust my string height (lower).
I feel like I am having a bit of success and I was wondering if anyone would like to share any secrets or tips with me?
Do I lower all the saddles and gradually adjust each string up?
OR Do I just try to follow the shape of the fretboard (convex)..?
It feels pretty close, but I would like to find a fool proof measure or action that I could use again and again..Any advice would be appreciated. How do you guys do this stuff?
Shaun:D

[Stan Malinowski]

For guitars with indivually adjustable saddle heights I set the height of the high and low E strings to where I want to be then follow the radius of the fretboard to set the "middle" saddle heights.

In order to do this it is useful to have a radius gauge to hold under the strings and ge the radius correct. Stewart-MacDonald Guitar Supply sells an excellent set, each with a small handle to hold the gauge while you adjust. Stew-Mac also sells a stainless-steel gauge tool which is excekllent for measuring string and pickup height. Don Erlwine's book "Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great" comes with a free set of plastic gauges to help set up a guitar.

[tom]

always, always, always make sure the neck is in proper adjustment first.
we use a metal ruler and follow the radius. we set the high e at 1/16", at the last fret, and the low e just above the 1/16" line. everything in the middle morphs from the high to low setting. this is a fairly low setting, if you are a hard right hand hitter you may want it a bit higher.

[Casper]

Thank you Tom and Stan.
I realize its a feel thing for alot of players. I'm just not technically gifted...
BTW, Tom how are you able to hang out on the forum...don't you have some guitars to sell at NAMM, young man?

Stan, I take it you didn't need that KOA alert from indoor storm I sent you the other day?? I understand you already found your piece..congratulations!

Shaun

[Stan Malinowski]

Shaun,

I'm sorry but I never read your message! It never occurs to me to look to see if anyone has sent me anything. I will have to train myself to look periodically.

Thanks for keeping me in mind. I actually had seen that Koa HDT at IS a couple of weeks ago. Believe it or not I was not crazy about the solid RW neck. Luckily Tom set up a deal for me and I am completly enjoying my new Koa.

[Stan Malinowski]

Shaun,

I just happened to stumble across a website with the template to make your own radius gauges!

Radius Gauge Templates (http://www.pickguardian.com/pickguardian/Images/Pickguardian%20Neck%20Radius%20Gauges.pdf)

[tom]

earlier this year when my back was out i got a laptop so i could be working in bed at home. i've since been using it for everything. i took it to namm so i could check in at night. how could i go 5 days without checking in to the forum?

[Casper]

Thanks Stan!!
I guess after I cut out the templates, I use one of the guages to set the bridges? Do I need to know what my neck radius is ?Or are these just a preference thing?

I have a TA standard .030 over on my drop top and a 62 rb on my classic...
any further advice? Sorry I'm so slow..:(
Shaun

[Stan Malinowski]

Shaun,

When you make the templates be sure they are constructed on a piece of cardboard to make them stiff.

With the strings off the guitar use the template to find the radius of the fretboard. Restring the guitar and make sure the neck relief is within limits (as Tom suggested). What I do then is set the high and low E strings to the proper height. I do it by feel but you can use a metal machinists ruler that has graduations of 1/64" to set the height. Then use the appropriate radius gauge to set the "curvature" of the middle 4 saddle heights to match the radius of the fretboard.

[Casper]

Thanks Stan, I will have to go and get one of the rulers, can't wait to try it out! Thanks again!
Shaun

[Stan Malinowski]

Shaun,

Here are some of the tools I use QUITE frequently:

Measuring Gauge (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Measuring_tools/String_Action_Gauge.html)

Radius Gauges (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Fretting_tools:_Fret,_fingerboard_preparation/Understring_Radius_Gauges.html)

Relief Gauge (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Fretting_tools:_Fret,_fingerboard_preparation/The_Relief_Gauge.html)

[Casper]

I am going to explore the Stew Mac website, I feel the credit card vibrating;)

Thanks for all your help Stan....

[JoeB63]

Stan mentioned this, but I want to reiterate it: before adjusting the saddle heights, make sure the neck relief is set correctly. There are tips on how to do this on the TA web site.

You'll be surprised how much the action changes with a tiny tweak of the truss rod.

[ryman150]

I just wanted to say I purchased a few tools that Stan mentioned a long time ago. I must say, the Radius gauges and the Action Height Gauges are amazing. I don't know how I survived with out them!! This has revolutionized the way I setup my guitars now! Haha! Thanks!!

[bruce]

You can save yourself the dough, the squinting of your eyes, and your time by skipping the radius gauge routine... just measure each string height by resting the steel rule on the top of the last two frets.... voila!! Instant radius! Plus, it's way more accurate since you are measuring from the fret radius on the guitar, not a gauge.

MAKE SURE YOU CHECK AND ADJUST YOUR NECK FIRST!

[Lucidology]

These tools are indeed, just too cool!!... I also checked them out and immediately ordered them the very day I first read this forum...

I use to use radius gauges which measure over the strings which work, but are somewhat clumsy... the one's under are ever so much better.

The string action height radius is a phenomenal discovery... an amazing improvement!!

Thanks Stan

[GaryMcT]

Bruce, so what you are saying is that the height from the top of the last two frets to the bottom of the string should be the same for all strings, making the radius checker unnecessary?

Also, in general, is a full setup:

1) adjust neck as per web site
2) adjust saddle height
3) adjust trem
4) intonate

Are these in the right order? I'm completely clueless on guitar setup. . it's about time I got a clue. :)

[bruce]

Wow... that was an old posting.

Yes, There is no need for a radius gauge to measure action or set saddles... you have the frets as your ultimate radius gauge. To answer your question, we morf the 1/16'' at the 20th-21st fret so that the low E side has slighlty and gradually a larger gap compared to the high E which is at the 1/16th line. We make the low E rest on top of the line. You need really good lighting and patients.

You would want to check the items you mentioned in this order...(tuned to pitch and in playing position):

1) neck angle
2) trem (amount of float if any)
3) saddle / action height
4) intonation

Neck angle affects string height at the 20th fret more than some want to think, so that is one of the reasons to "CHECK THE NECK FIRST".

I just realized I sort of repeated everything as that guy named Tom said... oh well, I'll hit the "submit reply" button anyway.

[GaryMcT]

Thanks Bruce, that's very helpful. Your setup on the Atom made my other guitars sad.

I'm pretty good at digging up really old threads. :)

[GaryMcT]

OK, I'm down with the saddle height. :)

When adjusting the truss rod, do you eye the string height at the 7th fret, actually use a business card as a gauge, use a really fine ruler with thousanths of an inch, or something else?

[GaryMcT]

Using the 64ths of an inch part of a ruler, .003 inches (from the .003 to .006 inches at the 7th fret from the neck adjustment page) is .192/64 inches. Is the space really that small. . wow.

Doh! Just found the answer (maybe) to my previous question. Do folks use feeler gauges to adjust the truss rod?

[GaryMcT]

You know, sometimes it's kind of nice to have a conversation with yourself. :)

[Yngve]

When I adjust the necks I don't use any feeler gauges or ruler. I fret the sting at the 15th and 1st fret, and use my index finger at the 7th fret to see and feel if there is any relief. When the strings just about don't touch the 7th fret , I'm done with adjusting the neck. Then the neck is pretty straight. Don't know if it's possible to get it any straighter without some serious buzzing. Just my method of doing things, but it works for me :)

[bruce]

Use your eyes... feeler gauges are not that acurate in this aplication because the gauge can just slide under the string and you won't have any resistance to measure from which is how feeler gauges work.

Using your eyes, having good lighting is key here. The method Yngve uses is the same as we do at the shop.

May the force be with you....

[sanjay]

Hi
In an TA with individual string saddle height adjustments, each saddle has two screws.
I always struggle to make sure that both screws per saddle are at the same height. I use a vernier caliper to measure height at each end of the saddle to see that each saddle is parallel to the base plate. Is this required ? Is there an easier way ?
thanks
sanjay

[Chuckracer]

I just eyeball mine.