Neck tweaking...

[ryman150]

Well I went to make sure my guitars are all setup and tweak things tonight. I did the whole "business card" test, and it's not quite going as the website says. I still sight down the neck to try and get a visual of the curvature. I got my hollow t to where it has a slight forward curve, but almost straight.

It feels SO good, but I can't fit a business card under the 7th fret, while fretting 1st and 15th fret on the G string. Theoretically, if there is ANY distance between the fret and the string on the 7th fret, this should indicate some sort of forward bow. The closer to the string, I would guess the closer the neck would be to being perfectly straight. Or if the string was touching, it would either be straight, or have a back bow...is this not correct?

Any input or advice...?

[BFC]

I tweak mine until I can see just a little space between the string and the fret while using the recommended method and then tweak a little one way or the other by playing feel. This is comfortable for me and this adjustment makes a huge difference to me for how loose or stiff the strings feel for bending. If it is too straight (string too close or touching) the guitar feels stiff. So you might try loosening it a little if it's touching and you think you might want a little slinkier feel. I like it to bend fairly easily but not have too much give under the pick. Don't forget to tune after each tweak! ;)

Basically as long as it isn't wildly bowed one way or the other I go with how it feels under my fingers. :)

[morty]

Interesting BFC! Ilike my neck`s almost straight, but I feel my Anderson is more stiff than my Fender maby I have to loosen my trussrod a bit!

Another question is,Do the fischmanbridge make bending different compared toi the std. Anderson bridge?

[Yngve]

Interesting BFC! Ilike my neck`s almost straight, but I feel my Anderson is more stiff than my Fender maby I have to loosen my trussrod a bit!

Another question is,Do the fischmanbridge make bending different compared toi the std. Anderson bridge?

I have both the Fishman and the std vintage Anderson bridge (I think it's also made by Fishman) on two different HDTC, and I can't feel any difference between them. I think it's the same bridge except that fishman has piezo saddels installed.

[ryman150]

But by loosening the neck, am I not raising the action? Or would the ideal situation be to loosen the neck to the desired position, and then readjust the saddles to where I like my action...??

Funny how many adjustments there are. And both of mine require the neck to come off. I wish I had new Andys where the adjustment was at the headstock...

Thanks guys

[tom]

a business card is a scary gauge, they vary in thinckness greatly. .006-,009" is what most people like. that's half the thickness of most business cards. yes you are changing the action height when you adjust the neck. i think that's what you are feeling in the tighter or looser feel. it's easier to under a string to bend it when it is higher. when the neck is straighter, you get a more even feel from end to end, but you are more likely to get fret buzz when hitting the guitar hard. i little bow keep the feel nice down low, but gives you a little more space under the string up igh for bending. it also allows you to slap the guitar a little harder before fret buzz.
to me the fishman made bridge, piezo or not, feels a little slinkier because the string does slide slightly accross the saddle when you bend.
if you like our standard action, make sure you have the neck right before you start messing with the indiviual saddles. we get guitars back here that have been adjusted by customers "luthiers", and the saddles are all messed up.

[bruce]

Funny how many adjustments there are. And both of mine require the neck to come off. I wish I had new Andys where the adjustment was at the headstock...

Thanks guys

Actually, it is NOT required that you take the neck off to adjust... and it is recomended that you don't. You just need the right size screwdriver.

[morty]

Tom said: to me the fishman made bridge, piezo or not, feels a little slinkier because the string does slide slightly accross the saddle when you bend.

That is pherhaps the reason my Anderson feels harder to bend! Thank you for answer!

[ryman150]

I realize the neck isn't required to come off, but it's much easier for me, and I have a much less chance of slipping. The other day, even with the neck off, I had to put a good amount of pressure on the TR to get it to turn. I can't immagine having to have cranked that thing with the neck on at a funny angle.

Maybe it's a good excuse to sell my two guitars and get brand new ones with the new TR adjustment at the headstock...haha!

[bruce]

I strongly suggest that people don't take the neck off to adjust it. When things go back together, there are always very small differences in string height measurments... I know it sounds weird, and I'm talking very small amounts here...but trust me... I have to take necks off for other reasons and there is a funny freak of nature that takes place... Just know that if you have to remove the neck, recheck the string action to make sure everything is the way it was before.

[BFC]

I have to say... the new headstock adjustment for the longer scale guitars is a HUGE improvement. I never had much luck with the necks with the adjustment at the heel and always thought the Cobras were much more user friendly.

So, thanks for making the change, Tom! ;)

[ryman150]

You just need the right size screwdriver.

Probably a dumb question, but what is the exact screw driver that should get the job done? Any where online where I could just order one up?

Thanks,

Ryan

[tom]

we use a flat blade about 3/16 wide and 10" long. wwe get them from snapon, but i have bought them in the local hardware store too.

[kasmit]

a business card is a scary gauge, they vary in thinckness greatly. .006-,009" is what most people like. that's half the thickness of most business cards. yes you are changing the action height when you adjust the neck. i think that's what you are feeling in the tighter or looser feel. it's easier to under a string to bend it when it is higher. when the neck is straighter, you get a more even feel from end to end, but you are more likely to get fret buzz when hitting the guitar hard. i little bow keep the feel nice down low, but gives you a little more space under the string up igh for bending. it also allows you to slap the guitar a little harder before fret buzz.
to me the fishman made bridge, piezo or not, feels a little slinkier because the string does slide slightly accross the saddle when you bend.
if you like our standard action, make sure you have the neck right before you start messing with the indiviual saddles. we get guitars back here that have been adjusted by customers "luthiers", and the saddles are all messed up.

Anderson classic:

with the neck adjusted and almost straight...should the low e saddle and high e hit the bridge... I cant get my E's any lower...so I am thinking the neck may need more back bow... so that raising the saddles would give me some play... (or a better question : what would cause this ?)

I have a radius gauge..and flat ruler...with .003-.10 feeler gauge...and all the tool necessary...

thanks tom..........

Kas

[tom]

where are you trying to get the action? we set it at 1/16" at the last fret when they leave here. you should be able to get it there with the neck in proper adjustment. sometimes the saddles get close, but you should at least be able to get it to 1/16". how much bow do you have?

[bruce]

Kas,

something sounds wrong.. when the guitar is at normal tension you should have ample adjustment room up and down with the saddle...are you sure there aren't any shims in the neck pocket? We have lots of guitars returned to the shop after the customers "luthiers" felt that they need to install shims in Anderson's neck pockets... If you see shims, remove them.

[kasmit]

where are you trying to get the action? we set it at 1/16" at the last fret when they leave here. you should be able to get it there with the neck in proper adjustment. sometimes the saddles get close, but you should at least be able to get it to 1/16". how much bow do you have?



my saddles height on the bass E and high E are flush with the bridge... they cant get any lower...but my action height is approx 1/16..maybe a little lower..I just wanted to know if the 2 saddles mentioned above should be flush with the bridge.....because I can't adjust them any lower...without a truss rod adjustment...

At your shop when you first install the saddles...do you start flush.. and raise them...or start at a defined saddle height...1/64 and raise/lower as needed..

i would like to lower my E strings./both ....but I can't get any lower..in the radius...that is why i asked.."when the neck is straight..and the saddles are flush...should the string touch the 22nd fret...?? "then should I raise the saddle to make each height 1/16 at the 22nd...

I just bought a Kenny Burell archtop..and the string are sooo low......all I did was spin the E's on the bridge...down..
that my Andy string height seems high...so I want to get them closer..I use elixir 10's on my classic...and 12's on the Kenny burell...but the Andy guitar was originally set up for 9's.....


thanks


KAS....

[killerburst]

when the neck is straight..and the saddles are flush...should the string touch the 24th fret...?? "then should I raise the saddle to make each height 1/16 at the 24th...

I think I see the problem... you have 24 frets on your Anderson, ya say? Did you buy this guitar at a Texas pawn shop? :eek:

[kasmit]

I think I see the problem... you have 24 frets on your Anderson, ya say? Did you buy this guitar at a Texas pawn shop? :eek:

nah.. just got it confused with My 1990 prs...

mine is a 04-10-97p...no pawn shop here...(never bought a guitar from a pawn shop....ever..).., .:)


now if only you answered the question...:)

take care


KAS..

[kasmit]

Kas,

something sounds wrong.. when the guitar is at normal tension you should have ample adjustment room up and down with the saddle...are you sure there aren't any shims in the neck pocket? We have lots of guitars returned to the shop after the customers "luthiers" felt that they need to install shims in Anderson's neck pockets... If you see shims, remove them.

nah...no shims....and the bridge is flat against the body...and bend up when I bend strings..... I will have to check the neck again...maybe it needs to be straight... I do have saddle play with the middle 4...its just the E's that cant go lower... but I will try to adjust the neck with the saddle lifted a little...



that is why I asked if the Anderson Factory set a specific height on the saddles when the install..


thanks


kas

[kasmit]

Kas,

something sounds wrong.. when the guitar is at normal tension you should have ample adjustment room up and down with the saddle...are you sure there aren't any shims in the neck pocket? We have lots of guitars returned to the shop after the customers "luthiers" felt that they need to install shims in Anderson's neck pockets... If you see shims, remove them.

Last night I raised the saddles.. and tightened the truss...and so far so good...I get .005 at the seventh fret while holding the 1st and 15th...and I have approx btw. 1/8 or more from being flush on all strings.at the bridge....I used feeler gauge..to check the minimum...


thanks stan...

[bruce]

Kas,
Sounds like your neck angle is ok... String height should be measured at the 20-21st fret... it should be 1/16" at the high E and slightly more than 1/16" on the low E. If you still have no clearence underneath the E saddles, there is something wrong in this equation. Are you sure the bridge is laying completely FLAT on the body? It needs to be completly flat and parrallel if you want to have clearence under the saddle... even if it was floating forward you should still have clearence under the E saddles.

Sorry, I worded my earlier post weird... I said "if you see shims, remove them", but obviously you wouldn't see them unless you removed the neck. we know of some 'luthiers' that love to install shims... and that could be the problem.

Is it posible this guitar has had fret work or any neck shaving done? If so, that would explain the problem.

[kasmit]

Kas,
Sounds like your neck angle is ok... String height should be measured at the 20-21st fret... it should be 1/16" at the high E and slightly more than 1/16" on the low E. If you still have no clearence underneath the E saddles, there is something wrong in this equation. Are you sure the bridge is laying completely FLAT on the body? It needs to be completly flat and parrallel if you want to have clearence under the saddle... even if it was floating forward you should still have clearence under the E saddles.

Sorry, I worded my earlier post weird... I said "if you see shims, remove them", but obviously you wouldn't see them unless you removed the neck. we know of some 'luthiers' that love to install shims... and that could be the problem.

Is it posible this guitar has had fret work or any neck shaving done? If so, that would explain the problem.

I adjusted the neck...using a neck ruler from stew-mac....and sure enough there was a gap in the middle.(the problem was ,, not being trained to eyeball,,the ruler and without a mag- glass..the neck was not as straight as I originally thought...(this time I had someone hold the strings for me..while I used feeler gauge and mag)....I raised the saddles and tightened the truss rod...and loosened the trem..springs..(the trem was hitting the inner chamber when I bent the string..and making a clunk sound...)now it's at .005 and feels great!...it's just funny how Anderson tolerances are so fine...like a high end engine...it's has to be tuned just right....but I love Andys...My next guitar is going to be a Cobra (hollow)S....Sunburst.. Now if Tom only made a 16" hollow archtop

thanks Bruce..& Tom..

[Suriel Zayas]

Now if Tom only made a 16" hollow archtop
well namm is just a couple of months away. so....hey buddies, can we get something going to unveil at namm. ;)