Truss rod adjustment [Archive] - Anderson Guitar Forum - Sponsored By Northeast Music Center Inc

tom

12-08-2003, 11:22 AM

baritom's and crowdster's also have headstock adjustment. we have talked a lot about moving the adjustment to the headstock for all models. there are a couple issues. #1 is floyd rose equipped guitars. if it is moved, you would not be able to adjust the neck without moving the string retainer. i know floyds are in the minority these days, but we still do enough of them that i wouldn't want to make the rods inaccessable(i long for spell check).
the other issue may seem silly, but there is a lot of resistance because it wouldn't look "vintage". i know we are not the company with the large F on the headstock. how do you all feel about this? for us at the shop, it is no problem to adjust necks on the guitar. we have these 8" long 3/16" wide blade screw drivers that fit in nicely, but we do it all the time so we are used to it. let me know your thoughts on this.

Stan Malinowski

12-08-2003, 11:52 AM

Tom,

I have constructed the tool you suggest but still end up butchering the pickguard on my Classics. I have actually reverted to removing the neck and adjusting it that way to avoid damage. My Cobra on the other hand....easy adjustment.

I would have no problem losing "the vintage look". The fact is I bought my Andersons because of the improvements you have made to the classic Strat design while maintaining the classic Strat tone.

BTW Roy (maybe) hangs up on me every time I call to complain about truss rod ajustment!:D :D :D

tom

12-08-2003, 01:18 PM

sounds lke we need a training class here at the shop for neck adjusting. anybody up for a visit? seriously, no seriously, ..really seriously, it's not that hard. use the screwdriver like a lever not a screwdriver.

JoeB63

12-08-2003, 01:59 PM

Originally posted by Stan Malinowski
Tom,

I have constructed the tool you suggest but still end up butchering the pickguard on my Classics. I have actually reverted to removing the neck and adjusting it that way to avoid damage. My Cobra on the other hand....easy adjustment.

I would have no problem losing "the vintage look". The fact is I bought my Andersons because of the improvements you have made to the classic Strat design while maintaining the classic Strat tone.

I have had the same experience as Stan (and I agree with him 100%). I ground down the sides of a long screwdriver to avoid damaging the pickguard, but I was still nicking it, so I loosened the neck to get better access. The neck didn't want to come out even with the screws off -- that's a tight neck pocket! I actually couldn't get it off, but I moved it about half of 1mm, which was enough to get the screwdriver in safely.

pluto

12-08-2003, 02:22 PM

I would definitely vote to have the truss road opening at the top like the cobras-it's so much easier. When I used to have a Hollow T-I found myself always wanting to adjust the rod but I didn't want to ruin the finish. So, I used to ask my dealer to adjust it for me-he could do it really quickly without taking the neck off, so he must have taken training classes at the Anderson factory!

pluto

12-08-2003, 02:36 PM

I also forgot to ask since Tom didn't really answer Steve's last question-but can one special order a non cobra with the truss rod opening at the end?

tom

12-08-2003, 02:58 PM

we would have to change tooling to make long scales with the other end adjuster. we'll start new discusions here to see about a change.

killerburst

12-08-2003, 07:37 PM

Originally posted by tom
sounds lke we need a training class here at the shop for neck adjusting. anybody up for a visit? seriously, no seriously, ..really seriously, it's not that hard. use the screwdriver like a lever not a screwdriver.

Perhaps we do need a class. I bought a Craftsman 8" long 3/16" wide flat head screwdriver just for my HDT, dremeled the edges round and polished it up nicely so there are no sharp angles around the head, except the very tip. I tried with everything in me to do as you suggest, based on the tech tip on your website, but couldn't get the nut to rotate when using the screwdriver as a lever. I have to take the neck off, for fear of slipping and gouging my instrument (not to mention my guitar). What do you suggest be used as the point of fulcrum? The neck pickup? Any help is apppreciated.

Thanks,
Jon Stafford

SteveK

12-08-2003, 08:05 PM

Didn't mean to start a ruckus....;)
Personally if I wanted the "vintage" look, I'd probably buy a vintage guitar. My hollow Cobra S is an amazing beast, and though because of it I'd like to order more TA's, I REALLY dislike when the trussrod adjustment is at the body end of the neck. Evidently a few others feel the same way...
At least the Cobra and Crowdster that I plan on buying have the adjustment at the headstock. :D

killerburst

12-09-2003, 06:15 PM

Originally posted by tom
#1 is floyd rose equipped guitars. if it is moved, you would not be able to adjust the neck without moving the string retainer.

As a Floyd fan, and a fan of headstock-adjust truss rods, this concerns me. Wouldn't a longer Allen wrench permit access to the nut without removing the retainer bar?

Stan Malinowski

12-10-2003, 12:26 PM

I like the design that John Suhr and Ernie Ball have for truss rod adjustment at the heel.

JS has the tr nut manufactured to accept a hex head (allen) wrench that he supplies with the guitar. Allen wrench is inserted at the neck heel/body recess and bam, easy adjustment.

EB has a truss rod nut which looks like a wheel with holes around the outside (think of the tread area of a tire). Stick a rod into a convient hole and rotate to adjust the truss rod.

vai777

12-15-2003, 06:59 PM

The screwdrivers that Tom has mentioned must be magical because I have tried just about every size and shape and it just seems imposible. I have no choice but to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod.

I have however come up with a way to minimize the amount of times that it needs adjusting. I try to adjust the truss rod when there has been a string of really humid days. Do this with 10s or 11s you will see why in a bit (BEAR WITH ME HERE) I adjust it as straight as possible with very little or no relief at all. as the humidity dissapated the neck will move in the direction of string pull and cause some negligible relief. I have found that if the neck is adjusted this way the action will move 1/64th of an inch or less between humid seasons ie summer and dry seasons ie winter.

The action will move slowly therfore allowing you to get use to it over time. Its not like changing your string gauge from 9s to 11s and all of a sudden there is this massive up bow on the neck.

If you like your action to remain consistent another trick is that if you use 10s or 11s in the summer use 9s inplace of 10s and 10 inplace of 9s in the winter . The lighter string pull of the 9s or 10s (depending on your starting gauge in the summer) will counteract the upbow caused by the lack of humidity in the winter time. But be sure to change back to 10s or 11s in the summer time because you will most likley get backbow and there will be string buzz.

If done correctly this technique will aloow you to only have to adjust the rod once every 2 years or so even if you leave it strung to tension, wich certaintly beats removing it every six months and having to go through a complete setup, while you could be playing instead.

anyway as you can see I have way too much time on my hands.

my andersons are

1. Hollow drop top 06-18-00a A trans Black/Tortoise koa top
2. Drop Top 08-02-01a in purple
3. Drop Top 07-24-01p in cajun magenta
4. My personal favorite and guitar of the week for 9/15/02 and 9/29/02 is a Drop Top 09-04-02a with an insane quilt top in cajun magenta.

tom

12-15-2003, 07:05 PM

it's really not a magic tool. we do it every day lots of times. but i have gottn the message that it's too tough for the players out there. i'll be working on a solution we can all live with.

John Price

12-15-2003, 07:42 PM

I posted this on another truss rod topic but here it is again!
I found this tool from Sears that comes with most of the tool packages these day's and it has a right angled phillips side and a right angled flat side, now the phillips side is too big but the flat side fits in just enough to make the adjustment without touching the guitar!

:D

John Price

12-15-2003, 08:27 PM

Here's a picture of the tool! Check out this set and click to make image bigger and it's the S shaped one on the right side!

the tool (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=TOOL&pid=00941482000&bidsite=&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes)

SteveK

12-15-2003, 08:40 PM

John,
My apologies!!! I REALLY didn't realize that you were the killer guitar player from Magdon that Jack has been trying to get to come to one of my jams. Will touch base the next time I'm at the shop.

For everyone else....
My wife Joy and I have been hosting biannual jams here at our house for PRS Forum members. This year it will also be open to Anderson Forum members..... sorry but I just started buying these things!!! We supply the food, place to jam, and our drummer and bass player spend the day. Generally it's on a Sunday from noon until 6 PM. Will post more as I firm up the date with the guys.!:) Jack Gretz has honored us for the last 3-4 jams by coming out and bringing some GORGEOUS guitars to drool over...we ABSOLUTELY hope to continue THAT tradition!!!

John Price

12-15-2003, 09:05 PM

Hello Steve!
How's the Cobra sounding? That's one great guitar I hope you enjoy it!

I would like to attend one of the jam sessions if I can swing it! sounds like fun I just hope you allow me to sneak in with my Anderson guitar!!!:D

See you next visit!!

Stan Malinowski

12-15-2003, 10:04 PM

Tom,

The best design I have seen for adjusting the tr at the heel end of the neck is on John Suhr's guitars. Instead of slotting the truss rod nut it has a hex (allen) head opening. Insert the appropriate hex head wrench into the tr nut and turn. No fuss, no muss and above all no damage from people like me!

I don't know if JS has a patent on this design. I tried the tool John Price recommended and it won't work for me with damaging the guitar. Is it possible that your "brother-in-luthiery" might be convinced to send you a couple of the his tr nuts to try? I have actually contemplated contracting my father-in-law who wns a machine shop to attempt to manufacture me 4 or 5 for my Andersons. Set-up for a limited run would be expensive but to me far cheaper than replacing the pickguards.

Thanks,
Stan

dpeterson

12-16-2003, 09:57 AM

there is obviously a trick to it that we just havent cought onto. Some detailed pictures of them adjusting it, or a short video clip would probably fix it for everyone.

dave

kasmit

02-24-2004, 09:48 AM

thanks John,

I bought the offset wrench from my local hardware store.

it's perfect.. I adjusted my classic without scratching the pick-guard or the finish...it even has the proper angle to turn the rod

it cost me 5 dollars.. and it came with a 3/16 in slotted X No. 3

and a 1/4 in. slotted x No. 2 Phillips offset.. the clerk at the hardware store said that its called an offset wrench..

both work.. but the 3/16 has a better fit.. and it's smaller than the 1/4 in..

thanks...

khadri

JoeB63

02-24-2004, 02:12 PM

I think I have that Sears tool in my toolbox. I'll try it later today.

Stan Malinowski

02-24-2004, 02:29 PM

When John Price first brought up this idea (which he got to work), I ran downstairs and got the offset wrenches that came with my Craftsman Pro Toolkit. I found that the offset wrenches in that kit were too big to properly fit in the adjustment area without dragging against the pickguard.

It is possible that other manufacturers are slightly smaller. I found on my set the 90 degree bend is too long and can't get past the pickguard.

Khadri, do you know who the maufacturer of the set is?

I would LOVE a method where I don't have to continually take the neck off in order to avoid pickguard and/or finish damage.

mbrown3

02-24-2004, 02:54 PM

I DEFINITELY vote for rod adjustment at headstock. Frankly, I'm not sure how much you want to be like the big F. Vintage vibe is fine (and I think the guitars have enough of that regardless of truss placement), but the best thing about TAs is their vintage vibe with modern improvements - this, in my mind, would be one of them. Actually, when I owned (in the past!) a high end F***er (feel free to put in your own subsitute letters!), it had the truss adjustment at the headstock too. MUCH easier, and I too am one that can't really get the hang of the body end adjustment (though I've done OK with it, just not great)...

Rick

02-24-2004, 03:12 PM

I'm almost embarrassed to admit this, but 3 or 4 weeks ago, when the Anderson DTC I bought (new) ten years ago finally needed a truss rod adjustment, I just took a screwdriver (of more or less the size Tom recommends, but I was too lazy to file the edges), put a smooth little cloth under where the tool & the pickguard were in danger of being rudely introduced to each other, and attempted to be VERY CAREFUL. I'm not particularly good (at all) with guitar adjustments or tools in general, but I'm pleased to report total, unblemished success. Of course, I do hope it's another 10 years before it needs another adjustment.

Steve, your jams sound like the very definition of fun! What time of year do you do these things? I'd love to try to be one of the 10,000 wankers who show up.

JoeB63

02-24-2004, 05:24 PM

Originally posted by JoeB63
I think I have that Sears tool in my toolbox. I'll try it later today.

It actually worked!!!

Turns out I have 3 of those 90 degree angle screwdriver tools. One had a flathead on both ends. That's the one that worked. It only fits in with the flathead end that's perpendicular to the shaft of the tool. A tiny tweak on my HDTC and - perfection!

tom

02-24-2004, 08:38 PM

yeah!

JoeB63

02-24-2004, 09:39 PM

So may I suggest that the best (cheapest?) long term solution to the problem is to include a custom-made 90-degree angle tool with every guitar that adjusts at the butt end of the neck.

The Sears tool works, but it's not optimal. A smaller version of it would be better. I imagine you could design them and buy them in bulk for no more than $2 each.

I general I really appreciate it when a new guitar includes a truss rod wrench.

Kudos to Fender: They include a truss rod wrench, other allen wrenches, a strap and a cord with all of their American-made guitars. That's a nice touch.

tom

02-24-2004, 10:30 PM

i did speak to a guy at the namm show that was talking about a wrench that would be perfect, but he was in the talking stage. i'll try to follow up on that.

kasmit

02-25-2004, 08:13 AM

i am at work.. but as soon as I get home I will send you the name of the manufacturer....

(the pack came with 2 wrenches, 3/16 and 1/4.. but the 3/16 is really small)

Stan Malinowski

02-25-2004, 02:28 PM

I ran down to the Depot at lunchtime and found they only stock the offset screwdrivers in a 1/4" size (the other end is a Phillips head driver).

I measured my Craftsmen offset drivers last night, the are defintely heavy duty and very big. If you measure from the tip end of the screwdriver to the far side of the perpendicular handle it is about 1 1/8", way to big to get into the access space on the Anderson. The 1/4" offset driver at the depot is slightly smaller, about 1" from tip to back. I also called my friend who owns a Tru-Value Hardware Store, he said only 1/4" drivers are stocked there.

Hopefully Khadri can get me the manufacturer/part number of the set that has the 3/16" driver included. Khadri, was the hardware store part of a chain (Tru-Value, ServiceStar, etc)?

JoeB63

02-25-2004, 02:55 PM

Stan,
Mine is definitely from Sears and it measures about an inch from tip to the outside of the bend, but much less than an inch to where it starts to bend. I was able to slide/wedge it into the slot in the nut. It took me a few tries.

But I've had that tool forever, so they might not make that part anymore.

kasmit

02-25-2004, 03:14 PM

No Stan,

it was one of the local hardware stores in NYC....

It has a weird name... but I will tell you for sure when I get home

and look at the package..

when I bought yesterday.. it came with

2 wrenches 1. big 1/4 flat head with phillips
2. smaller 3/16 with phillips...

the curve fits into the guitar slot..(but at an angle,,but just barely) because the offset is not 90 % its more like 98 (like a fish hook).. so the fit isn't flush 100 % but it allowed me to adjust the neck without any problem.. and that was with the strings on..and tuned... imagine using a 3/16 screwdriver like Tom_A says but it is shaped as a offset screwdriver..

khadri

kasmit

02-25-2004, 03:43 PM

http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/vo1.html

the tool is a Vaco vol 1 and it/s 3 inches long,, the blade is about 3/16in

the length from tip to bend is 11/16 in see above link..

they make it with phillips and flat heads on both ends...

this will fit in the slot...

the photo is approx the actual size

i put the tool up to the screen....

take care...

khadri

Stan Malinowski

02-25-2004, 04:01 PM

Thanks Khadri!!!!

BTW is the 11/16" measurement from the tip to the inner or outer bend?

Also what screen resolution are you using?

killerburst

02-25-2004, 04:39 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2381491427

Stan Malinowski

03-02-2004, 12:22 PM

Just recieved the set of offset drivers Killerburst referenced. Bad news is even the smallest size is still too big to do the job properly. The search continues.....

killerburst

03-02-2004, 01:20 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Stan Malinowski
Just recieved the set of offset drivers Killerburst referenced. Bad news is even the smallest size is still too big to do the job properly. The search continues..... [/QUOTE

Crap! I didn't even get mine yet. What a waste of $2.50. :rolleyes:

Stan Malinowski

03-02-2004, 02:11 PM

Killer,

I ordered the Vaco driver Kasmit (Khadri) referred to. It was cheap (Under $2) but shipping brought it up to about $8. Still well worth it if it does the job without damaging the pickguard/body.

If the Vaco doesn't work I may ask my father-in-law to attempt to machine one for me. He owns a machine shop up the road from you in Waterbury. He's done truss rods for one of my buddies who build his own guitars.

Stan

killerburst

03-02-2004, 02:20 PM

Originally posted by Stan Malinowski
Killer,

I ordered the Vaco driver Kasmit (Khadri) referred to. It was cheap (Under $2) but shipping brought it up to about $8. Still well worth it if it does the job without damaging the pickguard/body.

If the Vaco doesn't work I may ask my father-in-law to attempt to machine one for me. He owns a machine shop up the road from you in Waterbury. He's done truss rods for one of my buddies who build his own guitars.

Stan

Cool. Keep us posted.

tom

03-02-2004, 03:12 PM

very seriously considering all necks adjusting at the headstock ala cobra. this will mean maple necks with no skunk strip. last chance for complaints.

GASMAN

03-02-2004, 03:18 PM

Tom, not to get the cart ahead of the horse---------but if you would make that change, how soon would it happen? I ask because I've considered replacing the neck on latest TA.

killerburst

03-02-2004, 03:22 PM

Originally posted by tom
very seriously considering all necks adjusting at the headstock ala cobra. this will mean maple necks with no skunk strip. last chance for complaints.

3 questions-
Would that mean no more one-piece maple necks?
What about the concern re: Floyd nuts?
I sent you my specs on Sunday. What are the chances that guitar will get done with a head-adjust truss rod?

Thanks,
Jon Stafford

Stan Malinowski

03-02-2004, 04:04 PM

I think supplying the proper tool would be the easiest and cheapest solution. It would seem all that is required is a 90 degree screwdriver which clears the pickguard and/or body. Maybe the Vaco offset driver is the answer, I'll find out when I get it. As stated before I bet the cost/tool would be minimal in volume quantities. The right tool would not require modifying present designs or eliminating skunkstripes. Seems like all would be happy with this solution.

tom

03-02-2004, 08:13 PM

i don't believe there is right tool based on the difficuly people seem to have with it. i think an enlarged cavity would be the only wayfor such a tool to be everyone friendly, and i think that would be less elegant than the other end adjustment. all that said, we will make a few other end adjusting maple necks this month and evaluate look and sound.

mbrown3

03-04-2004, 10:11 AM

No complaints - go for it, Tom! I think it will be much better in the long run, assuming tone is the same or better - will just add functionality. Thanks for really listening to your customers, too - great customer service once again!

SteveK

03-04-2004, 05:59 PM

WOW!! I'm astounded that Tom and co. are taking my original question so seriously. That is really amazing customer service, and I would love to order a hollow drop top if and when the change is made....vintage yellow, or natural, or............. ;)

John Price

03-06-2004, 07:16 PM

I have no problems with making the neck adjustment in the current position!! At first I thought it was an inconvenience, now it's been real easy to deal with......

;)

Stan Malinowski

03-07-2004, 07:55 AM

John,

If I recall correctly you're Andy has a maple board. Tom has told me that the necks with maple boards actually are easier to adjust because the truss rod sits a bitter higher in these necks.

I'm still waiting for the Vaco offset driver I ordered, hopefully it will be small enough. I did speak to my father-in-law the other niht and he is willing to attempt to design/fabricate me an adjusting tool. I'll keep everyone posted on what comes out of this!

Stan

Stan Malinowski

03-11-2004, 08:11 PM

Latest Update:

Good News...Bad News. The smaller Vaco offset driver arrived today. It is still not small enough to fit directly into the slot of the truss rod nut without holding it at an angle. I put some heat shrink tubing around the bend of the driver to cushion the area where the driver meets the pickguard. I tried it on a three of my Andersons with the following results:

1) Maple Board Classic - worked great. The TR slots were in a position where they were easily accessable.
2) Rosewood Board HDTC - didn't work. The slots of the the truss rod were in a position that didn't allow insertion of the driver.
3) Rosewood Board Classic - worked OK, but not great. No damage to the pickguard, but the TR nut got a little mangled.

I again tried the recommended TAG method with the long screwdriver - I just am too uncoordinated to make it work.

Conclusion - I got used to taking the necks off and adjusting the TR - it works for me and I have never damaged any part of my Andersons using this method.

Armando

03-24-2009, 02:56 PM

I realize I'm resuscitating this "retired" thread but I came across this today and although both Tom and John have moved the truss opening to the headstocks, this tool combined with a 3/16" flat end would probably do the job.

Maybe us "ancient" TA owners could convince the powers that be to create such a device.

I know, I won't be holding my breath.

http://gallery.me.com/suhrguitars#100188

tom

03-24-2009, 03:38 PM

this is our 5th year of headstock adjust so a new tool is not likely going to happen for older stuff. for 20 years we made the flat driver work for us.

dannopelli

03-24-2009, 05:22 PM

It really is not that hard to take the neck off.

All the Anderson guitars I have that are pre owned have scratches from guys using "the tool." Unless you are REALLY good at it just take the neck off. All you need is a capo and a screwdriver.

dannopelli

03-24-2009, 05:24 PM

Just remember one screw is LONGER! Be sure to put it back where it came from. They are not like Fender with all screws the same length.

jeff h

03-25-2009, 01:27 PM

Thoth105

03-25-2009, 03:50 PM

Was reading this thread for several minutes believing that I was in an alternate universe where adjustments are made at the pickguard end of the neck. I was relieved to discover that the thread is several years old. Thought somebody, me or yousguys, was trippin. :)

Me too. I was thinking I was crazy because I just adjusted my Classic T the other day along with my Cobra S, and remembered they were both the same.

sanjay

10-28-2018, 03:40 AM

Perhaps we do need a class. I bought a Craftsman 8" long 3/16" wide flat head screwdriver just for my HDT, dremeled the edges round and polished it up nicely so there are no sharp angles around the head, except the very tip. I tried with everything in me to do as you suggest, based on the tech tip on your website, but couldn't get the nut to rotate when using the screwdriver as a lever. I have to take the neck off, for fear of slipping and gouging my instrument (not to mention my guitar). What do you suggest be used as the point of fulcrum? The neck pickup? Any help is apppreciated.

Thanks,
Jon Stafford

I agree that we need a visual demo. If its not too difficult for you Tom, could you please create a video demo please ? That would be very helpful
warmly
sanjay

sanjay

11-01-2018, 03:57 PM

I just created this screwdriver that fits pretty well into the truss rod screw adjustment located at the neck joint of my TA 12-02-03. I believe I am modestly successful here. If it helps anyone bless me !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_fGmkCrKQo

Truss rod adjustment (access at neck joint) for Tom Anderson guitars
===========================================
You will need a strong set of pliers and a flat head screwdriver - head is 4/16 width and a little less than 2/32 thick. Use a kitchen gas stove to heat the tip of the screwdriver and after you see it get kind of hot (it will darken bluish black as well), bend the tip with the pliers. Be careful it does not slip out of the grip of the pliers. Use UTMOST CAUTION while doing this. After the screwdriver tip is bent, leave it outside in the garden on top of a landscape rock to cool down by natural air. Should take about 30 minutes to cool down completely.