Replace Vintage Trem with Wilkinson WVS1302P Locking?

[zerolight]

Hi folks

Just got my new and first Anderson. Really like it. But - I'd like to replace the trem with the new Wilkinson WVS1302p trem for a couple of reasons:

1. I like to float my trem parallel to the body - prefer the feel that way vs angled up at the rear
2. I'd like to have the new Wilkinson locking saddles to aid stability

Trem: https://reverb.com/item/23457425-wilkinson-wvs1302p-chrome-full-assembly-with-locking-saddles

Is a Wilkinson (or even a Gotoh 510) a drop in replacement for the Anderson Vintage trem, or is the stud spacing different? How about the threads on the studs, are they the same or do I need to pull the inserts and press the wilkinson ones in?

Is is bad to run the Anderson vintage trem clear of the body, floating parallel, like a Gotoh 510?

Thanks!

[kevin h]

I'm not sure about the Wilkinson questions, but it's absolutely fine to parallel float the Anderson trem.

[tom]

yes you can float the trem parallel to the body. you also can install those saddles on our trem.

i have been using a set for a few months now, and am enjoying them. we may offer them in the not too distant future, but on our bridge as i really enjoy bridges that are held on the guitar by the mounting screws so you can remove all strings at once without worrying about the bridge diving backwards. the original saddles were not hardened and i was concerned about wear from the strings getting clamped to the saddle surface, but they recently sent me a hardened set. putting them on my guitar this week.

[BFC]

Save me some of the current ones for my upcoming builds. I don't like change. :D

[tom]

brian, we would not be replacing what we have, love them too much. the wilkinson saddles would be an option if we go that way. they are a little fussy to restring with, you need a 2mm allen wrench and you have to back the screw out a fair ways to get the string under it on the wound strings. not sure i'd try it on a dark stage.

[BFC]

Sounds similar to the "Fender Floyd" that was on Strat Plus Deluxe models in the early 90s.

[zerolight]

Thanks Tom. My original plan was to just buy the saddles but I thought I'd read that your trem needed to be touching the body at the screws. I'll try floating it again, horizontal, see how that goes.

One more question please. My trem arm, as soon as the threads engage when screwing it on, becomes very very tight, even with the coller loose. The only way it's free to move (so I can let it drop out of the way when not in use) is to not thread it at all, using just the coller to hold it - but then it clicks as it catches on the threads when wiggled. Any thoughts?

[BFC]

Doesn't sound like you have the correct arm. None of mine thread in. They are smooth finish on the outside with no threads and just slide into the collar.

[tom]

since sometime in 2013 we have been using a module that has a screw at the bottom that can contain the arm if desired. if you engage the screw, you should not go more than 2-3 rotations.

if it's tight, try a little lube like nut sauce or vaseline in the rm hole and see if that loosens it up.

[zerolight]

Thanks Tom.

I put a little grease on and that’s cured the Trem arm. It goes out of tune if I look at it the wrong way, and since I’m not really a big Trem user and I’m still getting used to the Buzz Feiten system, I’ve just decked the Trem and fitted the 3rd spring to turn it into a fixed bridge. For now.

[zerolight]

Man - it sounds great and plays so effortlessly with the trem decked and essentially blocked. I don't think I'm going to bother changing it.