PDA

View Full Version : Neck Relief....Rosewood vs. Maple



Stan Malinowski
08-10-2004, 06:42 AM
A question out of curiosity.....because rosewood fretboards are pourous and unfinished are they more prone to variations in neck relief due to seasonal changes in humidity than necks with maple fretboards?

killerburst
08-10-2004, 07:59 AM
I'd think the opposite is true when you're dealing with one-piece maple necks. The rosewood fingerboard adds strength to the neck.

Stan Malinowski
08-10-2004, 08:04 AM
But typically maple boards are sealed along with the rest of the maple neck so shouldn't humidity be less of an issue than with a rosewood board which is not sealed and can more easily absorb moisture?

killerburst
08-10-2004, 08:58 AM
Rosewood is an oily wood so it is naturally more resistant to moisture absorption than maple. That, coupled with the fact that two pieces of wood laminated together is a lot more stable than a single piece of wood, indicates to me that a rosewood fingerboard neck would be more stable than a single-piece maple neck, even though the maple fingerboard has finish on it and the rosewood doesn't. If I'm wrong, it won't be the last time.

Stan Malinowski
08-10-2004, 11:50 AM
Jon,

Guess the oil factor of rosewood would indeed be a natural moisture absorbortion barrier. I suspect that there is a more of a problem with rosewood boards shrinking when they deplete themselves of oil. I know a few people who have experienced "fret sprout" where the rosewood shrinks to a point where the fret ends pop out beyong the rosewood board.

slowburn
08-10-2004, 12:01 PM
to avoid this, how often should one oil their rosewood boards? and what's the best product to use...

Stan Malinowski
08-10-2004, 12:09 PM
to avoid this, how often should one oil their rosewood boards? and what's the best product to use...

Typically 1-2 times/year depending on how dry the rw appears to be.

Use lemon oil, try to find one without solvents like napatha. Use sparingly and remove excess to prevent any problems with solvents loosening up the glue holding the frets. I dab the board with a q-tip with lemon oil on it, let it set for about a minute and dry with a clean cloth. An alternative to lemon oil is raw (not boiled) linseed oil although I know Tom is not a fan of it.

slowburn
08-10-2004, 12:23 PM
so then if you have an all rw neck, are you supposed to use lemon oil over the whole thing?

Stan Malinowski
08-10-2004, 12:27 PM
so then if you have an all rw neck, are you supposed to use lemon oil over the whole thing?

PRS recommends using Lemon Pledge (a very small amount applied with a cloth) for the backside of an all rw neck and lemon oil for the fretboard. Anderson solid rw necks have a satin finish on them so they not need treatment on the back side other than normal cleaning.

slowburn
08-10-2004, 03:41 PM
ok, is the lemon oil to moisturize the rosewood? or to clean it? or both. if it's the former, what should I use to clean the board.

tom
08-10-2004, 04:01 PM
it does both, good for the board.

SteveK
08-10-2004, 04:42 PM
Rosewood oil works real well on unfinished rosewood.

John Price
08-13-2004, 07:39 PM
I've used Endust for maple necks! ;)

killerburst
08-13-2004, 08:12 PM
Originally posted by Stan Malinowski
Jon,

Guess the oil factor of rosewood would indeed be a natural moisture absorbortion barrier. I suspect that there is a more of a problem with rosewood boards shrinking when they deplete themselves of oil. I know a few people who have experienced "fret sprout" where the rosewood shrinks to a point where the fret ends pop out beyong the rosewood board.

It's way worse with oil or unfinished maple necks. Rosewood will shrink a bit if it gets really dry, but it will also expand back to spec once remoisturized.